3 Days in Ravenna Italy

The hotel I chose for our stay was the Residence La Reunion. This very nice suites hotel is located right in the heart of Ravenna's historic center, making it perfect for exploring the major attractions which were mostly in walking distance. (It should be noted that the historic center of the city has limited car traffic allowed, however the hotel can give you a temporary permit if you are driving/have rented a car and wish to park it nearby.)

We had a very nice large suite complete with a kitchenette and generously sized bedroom, and found the staff very helpful throughout our stay.

After checking in it was time to get at least a light, late lunch. We walked over to Piazza del Popolo, the main and central square in the heart of the historic part of Ravenna. Lined with coffee shops and small cafes, it was a pleasant place to enjoy a first taste of Emilia-Romagna cuisine in a very medieval setting (Ravenna's architecture and feel in general felt very similar to that of nearby Bologna, which I had visited several years ago.)

We had two pasta dishes: tagliatelle with shrimp, zucchini and smoked paprika for one, and a stuffed pasta in a creamy radicchio sauce. Being radicchio season we would see it on a lot of menus during our stay here...which was great as I love it!

After a relaxing lunch, it was only a short walk to the first church we wanted to visit: the Basilica di San Vitale. Completed in the year 547, it is today considered one of the most important examples of Christian Byzantine art and architecture still surviving in Europe (and one of 8 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Ravenna).

The structure has both Roman and Byzantine elements but most important are its mosaics, considered the largest and best preserved outside of Constantinople.

What strikes the viewer about these mosaics, along with their bright color, is the profusion of natural elements: birds, flowers, animals, and stars. Stories from the Old Testament are illustrated along with images of Christ, the apostles, and the archangels. There is a great deal to try to absorb before even beginning to take in the other elements of the church, such as the mosaic labyrinth on the floor and the dome with its 18th century murals.

Right next to San Vitale is the also beautiful Mausoleo di Galla Placidia. Once the oratory of the Church of the Holy Cross, it now contains three sarcophagi, the largest believed to contain the remains of Galla Placidia, the daughter of Roman Emperor Theodosius I. The extremely colorful mosaics covering the interior tell of the victory of eternal life over death and again feature many birds and animals along with its religious themes.

After a quick break for a cafe, a little window shopping, and a stop in a local mosaic workshop, we headed back towards our hotel and to get in one last sight-seeing stop for the night: the Battistero Neoniano, or Baptistery of Neon. This 5th century structure is the oldest standing monument within the city and was built partially on the remnants of a Roman bath.

Again, the interior of the octagonal-shaped building is covered in delightful, colorful mosaics. The ceiling mosaic shows John the Baptist baptizing Jesus in the Jordan River. We again see the twelve apostles and many wonderful patterns and geometric designs.

After dinner we practically were ready to roll into bed, and save further adventures for the next day.

The next day we began our adventures by heading outside of Ravenna to visit another important church, the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe.

The basilica was consecrated in 549 AD by the Bishop Maximian and dedicated to Saint Apollinaris, who had been the first bishop of both Ravenna and Classe. Thus it is contemporary with San Vitale in Ravenna, and interesting to see immediately after having visited there the day before.

The Greek marble columns are impressive, and the ancient altar in the nave supposedly marks the  the place of the saint's martyrdom. But most impressive are the mosaics in the apse and triumphal arch, all that remains of the mosaics which surely, at one time, covered all of the lateral walls.

After the morning's explorations it was time for lunch! We headed back to our hotel to drop off a few goodies picked up while sight-seeing, then decided to try the restaurant directly across the street, Ca' de Vèn. This large establishment, within a 15th century palace, offered a wonderful menu of seasonal and local specialties. The house-made piadina was addictive and perfect to enjoy with a warm cheese budino (pudding) appetizer, and salad of raddichio and crispy bacon. I had to get the venison stew (another favorite of mine I can usually only enjoy at home, never in restaurants). The radicchio and sausage risotto was absolutely outstanding as well.

After lunch it was time to get in a few more of the churches and other destinations on our must-see list. The Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo was next. This 6th century basilica was erected by Theodoric as his palace chapel and then reconsecrated in 561 AD under Byzantine rule.

Inside the walls sparkled with more glittering gold and brightly colored mosaics, the most noteworthy being those of the three wise men and one illustrating Theodoric's palace.

Our train to Verona didn't leave until the early afternoon, so we had the morning to get in a little final sightseeing. We walked over to the Museo d'Arte della città di Ravenna—the municipal museum of the city.

All in all we greatly enjoyed our time in Ravenna. Our two night stay was just enough time to see most of the city's major attractions without rushing, though I would certainly go back again to spend more time there and explore the surrounding area which we only touched upon. Ravenna is a great destination for those looking to get away from the tourist crowds of other major Italian destinations, like Venice or Rome, and to get a taste of early Christian history and art perhaps nowhere else this well preserved. It's also quite an affordable city to visit as well! So why not consider a visit there yourself in the future?