In Search of the White Tiger

"It was discovered in a remote cave in these jungles. Among the group of four cubs one was white". The hunting party returned with the cub and presented it to the erstwhile Maharajah of Rewa a district of Madhya Pradesh State in Central India. 

The forest glades stretch long and were once part of the Highlands of Central India. Part of Vindhya Mountain Ranges stretching up to Eastern MP in the North this is one of the densely forested regions of Central India. 

On our very first drive to the reserve, its connectivity with Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve in the vicinity was obvious. SDTR lies in absolute obscurity in spite of the discovery of the white tiger a global phenomenon, it lies unexplored under the shadow of major National Parks of the country popular for tiger safaris and wildlife resorts providing recreation in the remote wilderness.   

Although fragmented by intruding humanity the weak interconnections with other tracts somehow support wilderness in Central India. These corridors are vital for the survival of the country's wild species and the pressure of biotic stress and developments are having a telling effect on these last remaining ecosystems in the tropics.

The lifeline of the park is the Banas River which intersects the park beside a number of its tributaries that enrich the biodiversity as a crucial lifeline, a support system created through thousands of years of evolution. This is a biodiversity hub of MP and on the way, you can visit a fossil park with fossilized plant species dating back forty to one hundred fifty million years. 

Ironically, these majestic tracts of Sal tropical forests survived from plunder being private hunting reserves of Maharajahs out of bounds to trigger happy locals and wood loggers. Sanjay Dubri it seems was the most cherished private hunting reserve of Maharajah of Rewa Martand Singhji, an estate with the largest landholding in India. 

A number of telltale signs of those hunting days survive in the reserve, I visited one old dilapidated shooting tower as the guide informed us about it. A dismantling structure, it comprised of mid-sized stones loosening and falling apart. This was all I could make out from the distance. Overgrown with moss and covered by climbers and emerging shoots it stood forlorn now deserted in an era whence hunting is no more a privilege but a crime in democratic India.

The last Maharajah HH Martand Singhji had given up hunting and had turned into a conservationist post legislation. I could barely make out the structure which had taken many unfortunate animals by surprise - tigers included. 

It was his Fort at Govingarh which housed the rare white tiger from where the predator's progeny spread throughout the World. The white tiger is found only in zoos and none have been seen so far in the wild.    

A wooden bungalow aptly called Kath (wood) Bungalow has been taken over by the Government. It was the resting place for the Maharajah on the hunt, made entirely of wood, it is situated majestically on the edge of the panoramic Banas River. 

Our first open jeep safari into the park was in the morning after a cool night's stay at Homestay by Banas on the banks of the river. Ajeet Mishra the owner of the homestay and Subash Singh the energetic naturalist full of enthusiasm accompanied us. The drive from the homestay to Dubri Gate is picturesque and goes through the tall stand of Sal. Safaris are not very popular here it seems with most of the visitors to MPTDC Lodge interested in recreation rather than a wild safari.    

We were expecting a lifeless Bengal tiger safari but much to our surprise the forests were live with action. The soft jungle roads were littered with pug marks and the jungle sound included raucous alarm cries, all signs of a robust tiger presence. The network of picturesque streams, small water holes and thick forests, and vegetation all around adds to the thrill of the drive serenity included. The tiger reserve accorded an esoteric experience.  

It did not take us long to find the big cat ensconced cozily in tall reed beds on a scantily inundated stream. The continuous alarms of the macaque had alerted us and the monkey was looking down at the stream full of reed and grass. We preened through the grass and reeds till we were locked down on that precious speck of white reflecting the sunlight. That was the tiger!

" At least a cousin of the white tiger", I said. "We are not going to go back empty-handed," I said gleefully.      

The ride was pleasant with plenty of deer and antelope coming across our way. A sounder came really close to our jeep surprised perhaps. The Hanuman langurs, spotted deer, and peacocks are a common sight. Leopard sighting is less frequent but sloth bears are seen frequently in the park. 

A proper bird survey has not taken place but Subhash has done commendable work. 

There are only two accommodations available at Sanjay National Park. The one we stayed at is called Home by Banas! The second is the busy MPTDC Resort. 

SDTR is about an hour's ride from Bandhavgarh NP in Umaria District. The park is well connected to Jabalpur Airport and the drive is roughly four and half hours. The park is also accessible from Varanasi Airport and the Allahabad railhead. 

Safaris have to be booked online at MPOnline Portal. You can seek assistance for booking Home By Banas from the resort's owner Ajeet Mishra and regarding hotel booking and safari. You should carry all essentials with you having purchased them in Jabalpur or elsewhere. Seedhi District is remote and things may not be available.     

Ajeet  Mishra Lodge Owner FaceBook Page