Sandwiched Between History And Jungle A Tiger Heaven

It was near the forests of Bandhavgarh at SDNP, Sidhi that the eponymous white tiger was discovered amidst a carnage that was common in the hunting era. It was the erstwhile Maharajah of Rewa who provided sanctuary to the rarest of the predator cub. It was the first and the last occurrence of a white tiger discovered in the wilds of India and the World. 

The Maharajah nurtured the animal with care and concern as a royal guardian and the efforts bore fruit, the white cub survived to spread his progeny all over the World. He was named Mohun which translates to = one that enchants.  Today tigers are found in great abundance all over the National Park but none white. This rare animal has found its place in zoos all over the world but none in the wild. 

The proximity to the Sanjay Dubri National Park, Sidhi,  a contiguous patch at that time brought fame to Bandhavgarh as well, and the reserve is one of the most popular among wildlife lovers all over the globe. 

The two thousand years old fort is mentioned in the Vedic scriptures and the Hindu pantheon as "Bandhavgarh" an edifice gifted by the legendary King Lord Ram. He is revered by a billion in India and the World all over. The gift was given to his beloved brother Laxman.

A temple dedicated to the Legendary King, his wife Sita, and brother Laxman stands proud on the edge of the tabletop mountain. Erect on the edge is another Hindu God Vishnu the preserver in the holy trinity. Lord Ram was an avatar of Lord Vishnu and the forests commemorate his descent on Earth. Lord Ram incarnate is the Central figure in the holy Ramayana an epic that guides the spirit of believers all over the World.        

Lord Vishnu personified our planet in many incarnations at this destination he is depicted in the zoomorphic forms. The vivid portrayal of the preserver at this tiger heaven is striking and a work of creative genius the Gond Tribes of Central India. Another popular statue is that of Lord Vishnu at the ascent to the fort. The reclining Vishnu is carved out of igneous rock, a structure that lies beside an esoteric pool created by a mountain stream covered with moss, lichens, and ferns. The spectacle is simply enchanting and the place was meant for worship as well as a shelter for the tired soldiers after the ravages of continuous battles. The warring dynasties won and lost this hidden kingdom, a perpetual saga of internecine wars that was part and parcel of ancient times.   

The last to rule over the paradise was the Baghel Kings who eventually shifted their capital to the nearby Estate of Rewa. The fort was losing its sheen and glory as neglect after the relocation. Nevertheless, the Maharajahs of Rewa tended to the faltering ruins as best as possible and could manage to preserve a large number of edifices and artifacts. 

In post-independence India, the place is under the care of the MP State Government but unfortunately visiting the top of the mountain is prohibited for tourists. 

At the top, the zoomorphic forms of the Lord are intriguing. They are in form of fish, turtles, and wild boars. There are around twelve man-made reservoirs and numerous shelters and courts on the ascent. The entrance to the fort is a stone arch made imposingly beside the chhatris which are elevated dome-shaped pavilions often small and used as shelter. The domes are now colonized by bats in large numbers. A lock hangs on the door which is still operationally managed by the priest appointed by the Maharajah of Rewa. The priest trudges eleven kilometers to the temple on the mountain and has the company of tigers and other wild denizens. He is an equal intrigue like the big cats.  As of late, the priest is no more but his place has been taken over by his son.     

Wildlife in the tiger reserve flourishes and is subject to tourism yearly. The park is closed during the monsoon whence most of the mammals are breeding. The other animals that survive are the leopard, sloth bear, bison, wild dog, Nilgai, Sambar, chital, fox, jackal, langur monkey, wild boar, rhesus macaque, barking deer, Indian gazelle, nocturnal animals which are less seen.   

The park is home to more than two hundred and fifty avian species and hence attracts many birders for watching them. In winter migratory birds arrive in impressive numbers,  but anytime, any season birding in this destination is very interesting. 

In the buffer zone that is outside the core area of the park night safaris are conducted, hence you get an opportunity to see the nocturnal animals and birds. 

Permits are required for safaris in the park. These are permissions for the tourism zone in the critical tiger habitat and buffer. For excursions at Bandhavgarh Tiger Park, one needs advance permits. Although permits are usually booked online at the MP Online Website they are available at the gate too, sometimes. It is better to book online much in advance.

The safari timings are in the early morning and then one in the evening. But the park also conducts full-day safaris with early entry and late exit, but the permits are costlier and hence preferred by filmmakers and photographers. Permits are usually available for buffer zone safaris outside of the National Park. 

The best way to reach the destination is to drive from Jabalpur Airport which is at a distance of 175 kilometers. The city lies in the State of Madhya Pradesh. There are many overnight trains plying between New Delhi and Jabalpur some via Agra to facilitate a visit to the Taj Mahal.

An overnight rail from New Delhi reaches Umaria Station, which is 32 kilometers from the park. From here the visitors can taxi down to the park. The best route is to fly from New Delhi to Jabalpur and then taxi down. 

The drive from Kanha National Park is about 200 kilometers through the interiors.