When Peter the Great of Russia Visited England in 1698

To build up his naval fleet, Peter had spent time in Holland learning the art of shipbuilding. However, Dutch methods lacked the mathematical precision of English shipbuilding and Peter was determined to study England’s superior techniques.

In January 1698, Peter the Great arrived in England from Holland. The London Gazeteer had given the public detailed information on Peter’s activities in Holland , especially his meeting with William III who had happily given him permission to leave Holland and visit England.

The public was fascinated by Peter who insisted on spurning the niceties of royalty. Despite travelling incognito, (rather ambitious when he was nearly seven feet tall!) crowds followed him everywhere.

Peter soon became notorious for his unconventional behaviour. Amongst his unusual pursuits were the following:

• seeking out exotic paraphernailia - he bought a stuffed crocodile and swordfish;
• discovering unusual drinks - his favourite being a cup of brandy laced with pepper;
• drinking in 'lowly' taverns with his mates, especially visiting a tavern in Great Tower Street so often it was renamed The Czar of Muscovy (although this could be an urban myth);
• adopting a soul-mate, the notoriously hard-drinking Marquis of Carmarthen and enjoying various 'sports';
• ensuring he hired a mistress for the duration of his stay – Laetitia Cross, actress;
• enjoying a stay at the Kings Arms, Godalming eating all the supplies and causing extensive damage.
• damaging vessels at Greenwich by careless manouevering of his small rented yacht, The Dove.

Not that bad, you might say. But most notoriously, Peter and his comrades leased Sayes Court, Deptford, from the diarist, John Evelyn, for two months until their return to Russia. It was a beautiful house, the garden being Evelyn’s pride and joy.

But more of that later - in the meantime, Peter had to have his portrait painted...

What a magnificent painting this is of Peter the Great! And what a handsome specimen the young Czar is!

In this work by the popular society painter, Godfrey Kneller, Peter looks every inch the charismatic ruler. With his rich, ermine-lined cloak, his brilliant, shining suit of armour, one graceful dancer's leg displayed prominently for our admiration, the classical Grecian curls framing the youthful, confident gaze of the attractive, twenty-five year old autocrat, he is the picture of vigorous majesty.

And we feel as though we are looking slightly up to the great man, which is of course, as it should be. But not too much, as this portrait was a present from Peter to King William III of England.

Behind him, in an alcove, rests Peter's great crown and through a window we see English ships emerging from stormy, war-like skies, touched by the sun.

The artist, whilst fulfilling traditional expectations of royal portraiture by surrounding Peter with formal attributes, has nevertheless captured the restless intelligence of this most unusual Czar.

Even though his subject is standing still, we get the feeling that he would like to bound out of the room as soon as possible. His right arm is bent at an impatient angle which anticipates a strong, unforgiving grip, his right hip is thrust forward as though Peter will any second now stride forcefully away to attend to matters involving urgent affairs of diplomacy. His keen, intelligent eyes look beyond us mere mortals, to a bright future.

Well, yes, possibly....in reality Peter was probably itching to get back to his rented house in Deptford, to be with the lads, have a good booze-up and trash the place over in true rock star manner.

In the meantime the traditional niceties of royal portraiture had to be respected.

And here's a self-portrait of Godfrey Kneller himself.

 But let's be fair. Of course, notorious behaviour will make the headlines and young royals are as keen as anyone else to let rip. But Czar Peter the Great's serious pursuits whilst in England cannot be overstated.

The man was a hands-on, autodidact, bursting with curiosity and enthusiasm about everything around him and not afraid to get down and dirty in the docks with the groundlings, learning all he could about the trade and working as hard as his humble companions. (In fact, Peter's 'can do' attitude extended to every aspect of Czarist affairs, including personally torturing his enemies - including his own son...).

Apart from working in the docks, he also

• called at workshops & factories, obtaining drawings and specifications;
• visited the watchmaker,  John Carte, where he learned to dismantle, repair and re-assemble a watch;
• learned further  mathematics and navigation from John Colson, manufacturer;
• spent time with Moses Stringer, the chemist, learning about metals;
• transported models of ships to Russia as examples of English workmanship;.
• visited the Arsenal at  Woolwich because he was fascinated with guns and artillery;.
• spent time at the Greenwich Observatory;
• visited Westminster Hall and saw many men in wigs. On enquiring who they were, and being told they were lawyers, he cried, “Lawyers! Why I have only two in my whole dominion and I believe I shall hang one when I get home!”.

Peter left England in April. He was reluctant to leave the Thames, his boats and fellow workers. He didn’t hesitate to entice hundreds of specialists to follow him home where they apparently enjoyed good wages and the knowledge that they were contributing to the modernisation of Russia .

Sources:

• Peter  the Great, His Life and Work by Robert K Massie (Victor Gollancz, 1999)
• Peter  the Great Through British Eyes: Perceptions and Representations of the  Tsar since 1698 by Anthony Cross (Cambridge University Press, 2000)