Visit Las Carboneras in the mountains of Tenerife North

by BardofEly

Visiting the remote mountain villages of Tenerife's north are like taking a step back in time. Las Carboneras is one such hamlet.

Where is Las Carboneras?
Many visitors to Tenerife have never heard of Las Carboneras because it is off the beaten track and tucked away high in the green-forested mountains of the north of the island. Las Carboneras is a village in the Anaga mountain range and a wonderful place to see and to plan walks from.
Las Carboneras is just a couple of kilometres from the modern cave-dwelling community in Chinamada. The equally small hamlet of Taborno, famous for its "Roque", is another of its neighbours.

How to get to Las Carboneras

What to do there

You can drive to Las Carboneras or catch the bus there on the 075 from La Laguna. There are six buses every weekday and three on Saturdays and Sundays. Consult the website or timetable for times of these services.

If you feel more adventurous you might like to walk there from Cruz del Carmen which is also up in the mountains of Tenerife's north or an uphill hike from the coastal town of Punta del Hidalgo.

However you get to Las Carboneras, once there you might fancy getting a meal and having a drink. This you can do in the excellent Restaurante Tesegre which is open every day of the week.

This restaurant is very popular with hikers and when I was last there a walking party of around hot and thirsty 20 Germans with their guide arrived. They had obviously already booked their tables, and water, wine and bread rolls were waiting for them ahead of their meals that were soon to get served.

Meals are really good and typical Canary Islands cuisine. The prices are very reasonable too and for just 12.75€ between us a friend and myself had Garbanzos (chick peas served with meat and potatoes in a sauce), Potaje (a rich and filling vegetable soup), plenty of fresh bread, wine and a bottle of beer.

The village of Las Carboneras has a small square complete with its own church, and there is also a school, but no shops.

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The village of Las Carboneras

In the Tenerife mountains
View of Las Carboneras
View of Las Carboneras

Where to eat and drink in Las Carboneras

Restaurante Tesegre
Bar and restaurant
Bar and restaurant

Taborno and Cruz del Carmen

Chinamada cave homes

There are signposts to Taborno and Cruz del Carmen and also to the hamlet of cave homes known as Chinamada. You can view El Roque Taborno in the distance. It is a curiously shaped rock pinnacle that points skyward from its home in the Anaga mountain range. It is a distinctive local landmark.

The views over the valleys and surrounding mountains are spectacular, and if you are there in spring there are plenty of pretty wild flowers in bloom too. There are orange trees laden with fruit and terraced agricultural land.

Las Carboneras is a great place to start a walk from. For example, you can catch the bus to the village and then carry on down the road just a few kilometres to arrive in Chinamada. Continuing on from there there is a footpath that skirts the steep ravine and leads you onto the seacliffs before winding its way down to Punta del Hidalgo. This walk will take about three hours.

A mountain village like Las Carboneras situated in the evergreen laurel forests of the Anaga region is a side of Tenerife that so many tourists never see. Many people enjoy exploring Tenerife by bus and this is one hamlet that is accessible by public transport. It is certainly well worth making an effort to visit it for a truly memorable day out in the island.

Copyright © 2012 Steve Andrews. All Rights Reserved.

Church in Las Carboneras

Traditional Spanish church and square
The village church
The village church


The walk to Las Carboneras

Las Carboneras on the map

How to get to Las Carboneras
Updated: 12/09/2012, BardofEly
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